My apologies for not keeping up here, life has been interesting, to say the least.
I since have been dealing with flooding, back surgery, riding, putting a concrete floor in the basement, and changes in the workplace. My daughter has also needed support in the pottery realm, just keeping her in production has been keeping me on my toes as well.
I'll throw a link in here to give you a peek into my busy-ness, and I hope to have some better content real soon. Have fun and keep it oiled!
Pottery wheel repair.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR9wyCioBbY&feature=g-upl
Thursday, December 8, 2011
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Sorry I haven't been keeping up to date lately, my wife has been in and out of the hospital since November and I didn't feel inclined. All is back to order and I can't wait for some better weather to break so I can start putting some serious miles on the old Virago.
My daughter has become my riding buddy, she got her 'm' license last spring and I found a 1978 Honda CM185T in REALLY good shape for her to learn on. Practice, practice, practice. On a warm Sunday a few weeks ago we did the longest ride for her so far, almost 30 miles. Impressive considering up to that point the best we did was maybe 7.
(to be continued, I lost 9GB of video I was trying to move onto a portable drive, stupid machine....)
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Tired tires
As I was wondering if my blog might be gaining any traction, I figured I might as well mention tires. I touched on keeping proper pressure in an earlier post, but what else? I recently lost two tires in less than a month, and ended up replacing all four.
Even though the tread was still adequate, I had not noticed there were small cracks starting to appear in the sides. Popularly known as 'dry rot', this type of tire failure can cause a flat or even a sudden blowout. A severe case of rubber failure of this type can look like this-
Even though the tread was still adequate, I had not noticed there were small cracks starting to appear in the sides. Popularly known as 'dry rot', this type of tire failure can cause a flat or even a sudden blowout. A severe case of rubber failure of this type can look like this-
So, look at your tires at least once a week, check the pressure once a month or so, keep an eye out for low tread depth and any other defects like uneven wear or cracks like those shown above.
Happy motoring and may God bless you!
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
There's no fuel like an old fuel
With all the concern about saving energy, let's touch on fueling your gas-powered machinery.
Selecting the proper fuel grade
When your vehicle was in the design stage, some engineer put alot of thought into how it was going to perform. Things like compression, engine temperature, horsepower, and other engineering aspects were taken into consideration. While this process took place, a particular type of fuel was decided on for maximum power, economy, and longetivity. What was chosen is limited to one of the types of fuel you find at the pump when your tank is getting low and you head to the station nearby. What you typically find are black hoses with their snouts nestled in next to labels marked '87', '89', '93' and so on. These are different grades of fuel as can be easily spotted by the differences in price. Don't be fooled and say to yourself, "I'll just buy the cheaper stuff and save some money. My vehicle doesn't care." Nay my friend, but your engine DOES care! The lower the price doesn't mean the lower the quality, those numbers have to do with what temperature the gas burns. You as a caring operator must check your owners manual and see what type fuel the guy in the lab coat designed your engine to burn. If you are using the incorrect grade, it may seem like you're saving money on a fill-up, but you are costing yourself more in the long run with premature engine wear and DECREASED fuel mileage. I tried this myself some time ago and found a tank full(15 gallons) of cheaper grade was only 15 cents less than 91+ octane that the manufacturer called for, factoring in I only got 19 miles per gallon out of 87 octane and 21mpg with the 91. Read the owner's manual and save yourself some money. And yes, the emissions will be worse with the incorrect fuel choice.
A little care goes a long way
Another point to ponder, is there anything else needed besides putting the right fuel in the tank? Yes! I say. Consider your tank as any other metal container. When temperatures change, expansion and contraction takes place, drawing in and venting outside air. Along with that air comes moisture which is not good for your tanks' interior, as it can cause rust. Also, with freezing temperatures the moisture will condensate and become ice, which can block the fuel system and stop your engine cold.(pun intended) What to do you say? There are two things that come immediately to mind. First, try to keep your tank full as the smaller air space leaves less room for venting moisture-laden air and prevents moisture from collecting on the inside surfaces. Second, go to the local auto parts store and buy some 'dry gas' or other fuel system additive that removes moisture and follow the directions. A small investment a couple times a year will save alot of headaches 'down the road'.(ha ha, sorry)
Selecting the proper fuel grade
When your vehicle was in the design stage, some engineer put alot of thought into how it was going to perform. Things like compression, engine temperature, horsepower, and other engineering aspects were taken into consideration. While this process took place, a particular type of fuel was decided on for maximum power, economy, and longetivity. What was chosen is limited to one of the types of fuel you find at the pump when your tank is getting low and you head to the station nearby. What you typically find are black hoses with their snouts nestled in next to labels marked '87', '89', '93' and so on. These are different grades of fuel as can be easily spotted by the differences in price. Don't be fooled and say to yourself, "I'll just buy the cheaper stuff and save some money. My vehicle doesn't care." Nay my friend, but your engine DOES care! The lower the price doesn't mean the lower the quality, those numbers have to do with what temperature the gas burns. You as a caring operator must check your owners manual and see what type fuel the guy in the lab coat designed your engine to burn. If you are using the incorrect grade, it may seem like you're saving money on a fill-up, but you are costing yourself more in the long run with premature engine wear and DECREASED fuel mileage. I tried this myself some time ago and found a tank full(15 gallons) of cheaper grade was only 15 cents less than 91+ octane that the manufacturer called for, factoring in I only got 19 miles per gallon out of 87 octane and 21mpg with the 91. Read the owner's manual and save yourself some money. And yes, the emissions will be worse with the incorrect fuel choice.
A little care goes a long way
Another point to ponder, is there anything else needed besides putting the right fuel in the tank? Yes! I say. Consider your tank as any other metal container. When temperatures change, expansion and contraction takes place, drawing in and venting outside air. Along with that air comes moisture which is not good for your tanks' interior, as it can cause rust. Also, with freezing temperatures the moisture will condensate and become ice, which can block the fuel system and stop your engine cold.(pun intended) What to do you say? There are two things that come immediately to mind. First, try to keep your tank full as the smaller air space leaves less room for venting moisture-laden air and prevents moisture from collecting on the inside surfaces. Second, go to the local auto parts store and buy some 'dry gas' or other fuel system additive that removes moisture and follow the directions. A small investment a couple times a year will save alot of headaches 'down the road'.(ha ha, sorry)
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Cold weather riding
Ahh yes, the chill is in the air, but you don't want to put the motorcycle away. I want to go over a few points about cold weather and bikes that should be remembered.
Weather
Before planning a ride, check the forecasts and prepare for the worst. When the temperature gets down into the 40's farenheit during the day, it may be near freezing when the sun goes down. This can pose a real problem if there's a chance of precipitation in the forecast. With only two wheels in contact with the ground, you shouldn't take the chance of there being ice or snow on the roadway. Don't forget the temp can be significantly cooler in low-lying and higher altitude areas, and any shady or foggy spots. Riding in freezing temperatures will be alright as long as the road is completely dry.
Your Machine
Cold temps are harder on your motorcycle just as they are with your car, and with potentially severe consequences. You can have your bike professionally serviced, but what else do you need? Let's start with three basics. The expansion and contraction in changing temperatures can affect tire pressures which you may not notice in your car, but on the motorcycle this needs to be kept in check with a good quality tire pressure gauge. Next is the battery. Since cycles are usually not ridden daily, the battery can lose it's charge over time, and much faster when it's cold. Remedy this with a one to two amp automatic trickle charger (12 or 6 volt, depending on your machine) that can be left connected while your not riding. Finally, follow your manufacturer's specs on engine oil. Cold temps affect the thickness or viscosity of oil and will cause hard starts, poor lubrication, and clutch performance.
Your Body
While you may be able to handle the cold walking around in a hoodie and tennies, these are not a good idea at highway speeds, even in moderate temperatures. Keep yourself covered in some form of decent riding gear, at less than 50 degrees f., you may even want to consider a full suit. I know all manner of expensive clothing can be purchased for these kind of riding conditions, but being a frugal type of guy, I've found snowmobile suits and gloves that work great for less than 100 dollars U.S. from sporting outfitters and surplus companies. The important part to remember is don't let exposed skin turn into frostbite by thinking, "I can handle cold, it doesn't bother me." Just think, 40 deg. at 60 miles per hour gives a 25 deg. wind chill. BRRR!
Weather
Before planning a ride, check the forecasts and prepare for the worst. When the temperature gets down into the 40's farenheit during the day, it may be near freezing when the sun goes down. This can pose a real problem if there's a chance of precipitation in the forecast. With only two wheels in contact with the ground, you shouldn't take the chance of there being ice or snow on the roadway. Don't forget the temp can be significantly cooler in low-lying and higher altitude areas, and any shady or foggy spots. Riding in freezing temperatures will be alright as long as the road is completely dry.
Your Machine
Cold temps are harder on your motorcycle just as they are with your car, and with potentially severe consequences. You can have your bike professionally serviced, but what else do you need? Let's start with three basics. The expansion and contraction in changing temperatures can affect tire pressures which you may not notice in your car, but on the motorcycle this needs to be kept in check with a good quality tire pressure gauge. Next is the battery. Since cycles are usually not ridden daily, the battery can lose it's charge over time, and much faster when it's cold. Remedy this with a one to two amp automatic trickle charger (12 or 6 volt, depending on your machine) that can be left connected while your not riding. Finally, follow your manufacturer's specs on engine oil. Cold temps affect the thickness or viscosity of oil and will cause hard starts, poor lubrication, and clutch performance.
Your Body
While you may be able to handle the cold walking around in a hoodie and tennies, these are not a good idea at highway speeds, even in moderate temperatures. Keep yourself covered in some form of decent riding gear, at less than 50 degrees f., you may even want to consider a full suit. I know all manner of expensive clothing can be purchased for these kind of riding conditions, but being a frugal type of guy, I've found snowmobile suits and gloves that work great for less than 100 dollars U.S. from sporting outfitters and surplus companies. The important part to remember is don't let exposed skin turn into frostbite by thinking, "I can handle cold, it doesn't bother me." Just think, 40 deg. at 60 miles per hour gives a 25 deg. wind chill. BRRR!
I have some motorcycle related videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/crabblike and I will be doing more article specific work as things progress here. Thanks for your time.
Four wheels moves the body, two wheels moves the soul. May God bless you.
Four wheels moves the body, two wheels moves the soul. May God bless you.
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